Blue Ridge Parkway Recon...And More

And you thought I'd never update this photoblog....well, here we go. I've had a busy spring and summer with lots of riding. The bike and I are approaching 20k miles in just over two years and I'm rarin' for my next long distance ride. However, work demands will put a crimp in my riding plans for the foreseeable future. So, I'll just have to bide my time doing riding related chores...like updating this blog.

Last weekend found me on the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) with a buddy from Tennessee. I've traveled portions of the BRP in the past but those car trips all focused around rock climbing or photography. Never before has the road been my destination.

The Blue Ridge Parkway's 469 miles link the Great Smoky Mountains National Park on the southern end with the Shenandoah National Park to the north. Our overnighter would cover the southern most 125 miles of the parkway, starting just outside Cherokee, NC, and continuing past Asheville and Mount Mitchell to Buck Creek Gap.



My traveling buddy has a newborn son at home and I suspect the few days we spent on the road were probably his first escape from parenthood in a few months. It was certainly my first chance to ride any decent distance in a month. I needed this ride!


Through the trees a Great Smoky Mountain Railway train takes leaf watchers alongside the Nantahala River.

Saturday started with a 50% chance of rain but by the time we reached Bryson City blue skies hovered over the Appalachians. Prime "leaf season", the two week period when visitors crowd the roads to view the fall foliage, ended last weekend but there was still some traffic in the mountains. Though we were slowed by a few tourist (and bikers) on the parkway overall we made pretty good time.

The day's ride had two highlights on the BRP. Our first notable stop was at the Richard Balsam Overlook, the highest point on the roadway. At 6053' above sea level the horizon stretches forever. An insect blight has killed many of the trees at this elevation but the views are still great. (See photo at top of this entry).

My bike at the Richard Balsam Overlook, highest point on the BRP.


Frost near Mt. Mitchell

The other highlight of the day was the frost covering trees near Mt. Mitchell, the highest point in North Carolina. Although our weather was good a storm front passing through brought cold temperatures to the higher elevations and deposited water on the trees. The combination of moisture, cold, and wind chill created a light ice covering on the trees.


A very cold riding partner ready to look for lower altitudes (and warmer weather).


Gates limit access to the BRP when ice and snow prevent safe travel.

Many years ago I lived one winter in Asheville, NC. The road behind my apartment switchbacked up the mountain and intersected the parkway just south of this area. I took every opportunity to drive the parkway back then and that was when I learned that the Park Service would close down sections of the parkway as weather dictated. In the background of the above shot you can see the gate used to close the road.

We finished our day on the BRP at Buck Creek Gap and headed down NC 80 on switchbacks so severe we had to inch along. I once glanced down and noticed my GPS read only 12.8 mph.


Buck Creek Gap and the parkway beyond.

We spent the night in Black Mountain, NC, just east of Asheville. Day Two began with a short ride up Interstate 26 after a sausage and egg breakfast biscuit.


I-26 can be seen winding up the mountain in the center of this photo, making it's way to Sams Gap.


Sams Gap is visible in the upper left hand corner of the above photo.

If you must ride on an Interstate then you could do far worse than the stretch of I-26 from Asheville, NC, over Sams Gap, and up to Flag Pond, TN. Once we exited the interstate we began the "Battle of the Numbers" portion of our trip. Before lunch we would ride over TN 352, NC 212, NC 208, US 25, NC 209, and finally US 19 back into Cherokee. Logistically, it was a nightmare but the GPS and a few scribbled notes on my tank bag helped make it manageable.


Exiting the Interstate in Flag Pond we began the two lane twisty portion of our trip.

Small farms in the mountains may be a dime a dozen but each has its own beauty.

Traveling light with only one other rider allowed quick photo stops, something I don't get to do in my travels with larger groups.

Nearly all of the twisty roads we traveled had a river along side it. Although the cooling effect of the water added to the chill it also added a scenic beauty well worth cold.

I must say that the riding in this part of North Carolina is as fine as anything I've experienced elsewhere in the Appalachians.

Along with bike riding, trout fishing is another popular sport in the mountains. Early in the morning we passed a stretch of river where a guide was teaching students how to cast a fly rod.

Although we were blessed with dry roads dangers still abound in the mountains. In addition to careless drivers cutting corners in the turns fall brings a new challenge to the road. Billions of little leaves more slippery than gravel pile up beside the road. I was relieved that we encountered very little trouble in that regard. Nevertheless, there were some bad spots.


Leaves begin to fill a sharp corner, ready to pull the rug out from under the unsuspecting rider.

Even though we were riding just past prime leaf season, we did see some great sights in the lower elevations. While enjoying the scenery I came to the junction of US 25, just a five miles before Warm Springs, and was shocked to see a coffee joint. Though I'd had a decent breakfast I wasn't able to get my usual cup of coffee prepared the way I like it. I pulled into the parking lot half expecting it to disappear, a mountain version of a desert mirage. Fortunately for me it was The Steady Eddy, a caffeine monger in the mountains. Damn good cup of Joe!




The Steady Eddy is built over a creek, on the site of an old mill.

After topping off my caffeine engine we headed back down the road. The scenery was much the same as before. Beautiful.

The last scenic spot we visited was the Lake Junaluska Methodist retreat and conference center. I've heard of this center for years but had never visited it. Since I was letting the GPS navigate this section of the trip we soon found ourselves in the middle of the resort. I'm not sure if the whole property is church owned or not, but at least a significant portion of the lake is surrounded by the church's center.

The amplitheater on the Lake Junaluska is a great place for a mid-day nap or a late night concert.

After Junaluska we parted ways back in Cherokee, NC. I need to do this more often. Thank God I don't have to store my bike every winter like so many other riders. Maybe this global warming thing isn't all bad....